Located
on the southern shore of the Apsheron peninsula, Azerbaijan's capital was
founded 1,500 years ago. The first written reference to Baku dates from
885, although archaeologists have found remains of a settlement predating
by several centuries the birth of Christ. The city became important after
an earthquake destroyed Shemakha and the of the 12th century and the Shirvanshah,
Ahistan I, made Baku the new capital. There are a few theories about the
origin of the name, the most widely known being that Baku comes from bad
kube, meaning "city of winds".
The
climate is sunny and arid, with gale-force winds that sweep through on
occasion, caused by masses of polar air. Baku is located on the western
shore of the Caspian Sea and is Azerbaijan's largest city, with wonderful
beaches, spas and a striking setting on the salty Caspian Sea.
The basis of Baku's economy is petroleum.
The existence of petroleum has been known since the 8th century. By the
15th century oil for lamps was obtained from surface wells. Commercial
exploitation began in 1872, and by the beginning of the 20th century the
Baku oil field was the largest in the world. Towards the end of the 20th
century much of the land's petroleum had been exhausted, and drilling had
extended into the sea. Baku ranks as one of the largest centres for the
production of oil industry equipment. The World War II Battle of Stalingrad
was fought to determine who would have control of the Baku oil fields.
Fifty years before the battle, Baku supplied half of the world's oil production.
In
recent years oil has made the city affluent again, but Baku is still a
conservative place. You don't see many women covering their heads, but
you'll notice many small revealing details e.g. ladies go to the toilet
for a cigarette, couples don't kiss in public...
Today's Baku is really three cities rolled
into one: the old town (icheri shekher), the boomtown and
the Soviet-built town.
The
centre of Baku is the old town, which is also a fortress. The walled
city of Baku became in December 2000 the first location in Azerbaijan classified
as world cultural site by UNESCO. Most
of the walls and towers, strengthened after the Russian conquest in 1806,
survive. This section is picturesque, with its maze of narrow alleys and
ancient buildings. Wander the cobbled streets past the Palace of the Shirvanshahs,
two caravansaraies (ancient inns), the 11th-century Maiden's Tower (nice
view of the harbour), the baths and the Djuma Mosque (it used to house
the exquisite Carpet and Applied Arts Museum, but now is a Mosque again...
and by the way the carpets are now at the former V.I. Lenin museum). The
old town also has dozens of small mosques, often
without any particular sign to distinguish them from the next building.
The boomtown, south of the old city,
was built after massive oil exploitation began nearly a century ago and
has interesting beaux-arts architecture. Fine arts, history and literature
museums
are located there, all housed in the mansions of pre-Revolutionary millionaires.
Modern
Baku, mainly a Soviet brain-child spreads out from the walls, its streets
and buildings rising up hills that rim the Bay of Baku. The flow money
brought by the oil industry in the 21st century changed the skyline, with
numerous tall building of doubtful architecture and quality framing the
city.
Greater Baku is divided into 11 districts
and 48 townships. Among these are townships on islands in the bay and one
island town built on stilts in the Caspian Sea, 100 kilometres from Baku
proper ('Oil Rocks').
If
you have a the stamina, it is worth walking uphill to the Martyr’s Cemetery,
formerly the Kirov park (there is also a funicular, but it's often out
of order, so you better take a taxi). This area is now dedicated to the
memory of those who lost their lives during the war with Armenia and also
to the 137 people who were killed on 19 & 20 January 1990 when Soviet
tanks and troops took to the streets of Baku. Photographs of victims featured
on each tomb-stone are sobering and poignant. Now 20 January has become
a national holiday of deep emotional meaning.
Many expats working oil industry in the
oil industry are to be found around Baku, but tourists are still a rare
sight. The government has be busy campaigning abroad, but Baku and Azerbaijan
are still not 'tourist ready'. However things are changing and Baku boasts
its first tourism information center, at Hajibeyov St. 36, created
with the support of the United Nations Development Program (UNDP).
history,
images
|
Maiden's
Tower |
Located
in the walled town (Icheri-Shekher) the Maiden's Tower (Gyz Galassy) is
Azerbaijan's best known landmark and the de facto symbol of Baku. You can
climb its eight floors and enjoy a magnificent view of the old town and
Baku bay. The cylinder shaped tower is about 30 metres tall with a diameter
of 16.5 metres and walls 5metres thick. Archaeologists estimate that the
tower was started in the 7th or 8th century and enlarged in the 11th
or 12th century by a Massud ibn Daud, as a kufic inscription reveals. Built
on a coastal rock, that made tunnelling under it impossible, the tower
as a bizarre projection at the base which gives it the appearance of a
retort (closed on Sunday). |
|
Shirvanshahs'
Palace |
The
Shirvan-Shah's Palace ensemble (15-16th century) was built when the Shah's
capital was moved from Shemakha to Baku. This was the most prominent architectural
complex in the medieval city. Some of the builings in the complex far surpass
the palace in splendour. Despite having built in different periods without
a single plan the several contruction form an harmonious whole.
The palace is a two story building, with
service rooms on the ground floor and state rooms on the uper floor. Built
in the 15th century by Halilullah I the palace remained intact a hundred
years. After Baku was taken by Shah Ismail the palace was abandoned.
Adjacent
to the palace is the Divankhane rotunda. crowned with a faceted cupola
of pointed arches, echoing a similar arcade in the courtyard. The stone
carving of the portal - with intricate ornamentation and kufic inscriptions
- is striking.
In the complex you can also see the 14th
century the Bei-Kubad Madrassa Mosque, the Shah's family tomb (the turbe)
and the tomb of Seid Yahia Bakuvi (a court astronomer) the Turkish
built eastern Gate and the baths.
(closed Monday/Tuesday) |
|
Juma
Mosque |
The
Juma (friday) mosque hosted for a long time the carpets museum, but is
now back to its original use. The building you can see today dates from
the early twentieth century, courtesy of an oil baron, but stands over
the remains of preceding buildings. Its main attraction is the intricate
stone ornamentation.
The Imam and his assistants are Turks who
studied in both Iran and Iraq. Services were on several occasions restricted
by the authorities, due to 'radical' content. |
|
City
Walls |
The
walled city of Baku became in December 2000 the first site in Azerbaijan
classified as world heritage by UNESCO. Most of the walls and towers,
strengthened after the Russian conquest in 1806, survive. You can climb
the walls near the Kileli mosque. |
|
Academy
of Sciences (Presidium) |
Originally
built by local millionaire Nagiev as a tribute to his dead son and to house
the Ismailia Moslem charitable society it later was later ceded to the
Academy of Sciences to house its Presidium. The architecture is mock italian
Gothic by Polish architect Joseph Ploshko, imitating the Contarini palace
in Venice. Behind it you can find the city wall and the Djebakhana tower.
(The main building of the Academy is located near Baku State University) |
|
Weddings'
Palace |
Located on the corner of Ahmad Javad and
Muxtarov streets and also known as "Palace of Hapiness" this building is
Baku's main wedding venue. It came about as another extravaganza by a local
millionaire: a Oil Baron Murtuza Mukhtarov built it as a surprise Valentine
gift for his Ossetian wife. The beautiful building is an imitation of an
italian construction, designed by Polish architect Joseph Ploshdo and constructed
by the Quasomov brothers. (closed Monday and Thursday). The palace also
houses the administrative offices of Azerbaijan's Composer's Union. |
|
The
26 Commissars Square |
The
centre of this large square is a dramatic monument with a man coming out
of the ground with a large stone circle hovering above it.
The monument pays tribute to the 26 bolshevik
commissars from the Baku commune defeated by the Turkish in 1918 and later
slain in Krasnadovsk (now Turkmenbashi).
The Communists blamed the British for the
killings and the unfortunate fighters became heroes in Soviet Azerbaijan.
Today, the flame that burned in their monument is gone.
The
square has a quiet garden and is the location of the always well guarded
Turkish embassy and of the Akhundov library, Azerbaijan's main book repository.
Each arch on the façade is home to a statue of a local literary
figure. |
|
The
Boulevard |
A
broad and shady pedestrian walkway runs downtown along the edge of the
Caspian Sea. Its promenade and neat gardens are popular with people of
all ages and favoured by young couples. At its centre, just across Neftchilar
avenue is the government house and the largest Soviet style hotels. A large
oil derrick style tower dominates the horizon, showing the time and the
weather.
Along
the water there are numerous rides and amusements for children - including
a Ferris wheel, that can provide some nice views. For the rest of the visitors
there are outdoor billiards, chess tables, tea houses and cafés.
During the summer small boat cruises in the bay are available. The popular
Terrace Disco and the Garden bar are located on the boulevard. |
|
Fountain
Square |
Fountain
square is Baku's most fashionable area, where you go to see and be seen.
The square is surrounded by sophisticated restaurants and shops. The long
and often dry fountain serves as an endless bench for lazy afternoons and
evenings. |
|
Government
House |
Built
on what was till the late 19th century a moor, used for hunting, today's
government palace is nothing but the former "house of the Soviets". The
magnificent outside architecture is the result of a competition won in
1934 by muscovite architects L.Rudnev and V.Munts. The works started soon
after the competition but the war and further delays only allowed for the
building to be completed only 20 years after. German prisoners of war or
widely used in its construction. Its 12 floors are more appealing
outside than inside. A 12 metre tall statue of Lenin by D.Kariagdy is long
gone. |
|
Opera
and Ballet Theatre |
Beautiful
both inside and outside, this early twentieth century art nouveau building
has an interesting metal decoration on the façade and a gilded interior.
It was commissioned to architect N.Bayev by the Mayilov brothers. Located
on Nizami street, behind the 26 commissars square.
Although you can see high quality performances,
tickets are still rather inexpensive. |
|
Nizami
Museum of Literature |
The
Nizami museum of Azeri Literature was originally built as an hotel.
It façade is decorated with dark blue and turquoise majolica. Inside
the ogival arches are statues of outstanding Azeri writers of several periods:
Fisuli, Vaghif, Mirza Fatali Akhundov, Natavan, Djalil Mamedkulizade, Djafar
Djabarly. Its 23 rooms contain over 3000 exhibits: illuminated manuscripts,
calligraphic art, rare editions, photographs and films, etc. Formerly the
Metropol hotel. Istiqlaliyyat street, 53. |
|
Carpets
Museum |
Formerly
the Lenin museum, the neo-classical building now houses the Carpet and
Applied Arts Museum and above it the Theatre Museum. The Kerimov
carpet collection is a must in Baku, with exhibits from all periods, styles
and from both Azerbaijan proper and the Azeri provinces in Iran (closed
Monday). |
|
State
Philarmony |
Magnificent
building by architect G. Termikelov, dating from 1912 and surrounded by
a pleasant park. It's a domed structure with towers in renaissance style,
design was based on the casino in Monte Carlo. The acoustic conditions
are excellent. Performances are often also held outside. Istiglaliyyat
Street. |
|
Nizami
Cinema |
The
main cinema in the city is a 1930s modernist (Constructivism) building
designed by local architects S.Dadashev and M. Usseinov. Quintessential
(good) Soviet Architecture. Hosts many civic events. Located on Bulbul
avenue. |
|
Taza
Pir Mosque |
The
most impressive mosque in Baku, finished in 1914 and built in honour of
the philanthropist Nabut Khanum Ashurbekova. It has an impressive stone
façade with twin minarets and a large dome.
A must see! Very popular in Soviet times.
Slightly damaged by the 2000 Baku earthquake, but quickly repaired. M.
Fataly street. |
|
The
Train Stations |
The
train stations create a lively market area, dominated by the statue of
Azeri play writer Jafar Jabbarli. Here you can buy about anything, enjoy
a glass of kvas on a summer day, meet people from all over the country,
or simply enjoy the city's life... but don't forget to mind your wallet.
The
two large buildings are the "Steam Railways station" and the "Electric
Railway Station". The first is a late 19th century domed construction with
an arab style tower, the latter has an eclectic mix of styles from the
1920s, with hints of art nouveau.
The USSR's first electric railway line
ran from this station linking Baku to the oil townships of Sabunchi and
Surakhani. |
|
Zorge
Park |
Long
park running along Bakihanov street where you can enjoy pool outside. The
main landmark is a monument to Soviet Spy Richard Zorge: two huge penetrating
eyes (he was an ethnic German from Azerbaijan who eventually died at the
hand of the Japanese). |
|
Martyrs
Lane (Shahidlar Hiyabany) |
Formerly
the Kirov park, the space is now dedicated to the memory of those who lost
their lives during the war with Armenia and also to the 137 people who
were killed on 19 & 20 January 1990 when Soviet tanks and troops took
to the streets of Baku (often called "Black January"). Photographs of victims
featured on each tomb-stone are sobering and poignant. Now 20 January has
become a national holiday of deep emotional meaning.
A large memorial to the Turkish troops
killed fighting against Russia in the early 20th century is located
here, as well as the 'martyrs mosque' also built by the Turks. Not far
from the Turkish memorial there is a small wall acknowledging the British
soldiers killed in the same conflict. No homage if made to the brave men
of the Russian army fallen in the same war. |
|
Republic
Palace, named after Heydar Aliyev |
Formerly
the V.I. Lenin palace of culture, then the Republic Palace, like many other
places it was renamed after Heydar Aliyev folllowing his death. This concrete
and glass building faces a wide square with gardens and fountains and the
red tower of the National Bank of Azerbaijan.
The Republic palace can seat an audience
of 2000. Its contruction dates from the 1970s, with a desing by architects
V.Shulgin and E. Melkhisedekov. |
|
Shikhov
Beach |
During
the summer some self-styled entrepreneurs clean parts of the beach and
charge and admission fee of a fee manats. Many vendors offer assorted drinks
and food. In the low season Shikhov is a good place for relaxing walks
or some jogging on the sand. |
|
see also:
IMAGES,
MAPS,
Airlines,
Airport,
ATMs,
Banks,
Bars,
Books,
Buses,
Business
customs, Business
services, Carpets,
Car
rental, Churches,
Cinemas,
Circus,
Clinics,
Communications,
Concerts,
Embassies,
Emergencies,
Flowers,
Gas
stations, Health,Hotels,
Internet,
Media,
Metro,
Ministries,
Museums,
Mosques,
Newspapers,
Opera,
Pharmacies,
Police,
Ports,
Post
office, Restaurants,
Radio,
Shops,
Sports
facilities, Synagogues,
Taxis,
Telephones,
Theatres,
Trains,
Travel
agencies, Trolleys,
Trams,
TV,
Universities,
summary |
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